Jaipur

After 11 hours in the car, we spent most of yesterday (Thursday) resting, but dong some shopping. Today, we went to the Amber Fort and the Tiger Fort ... no tigers. Lots of shopping. Thank goodness Gopal is with us to do the bartering ... we have saved a lot. Gopal hired a man at the hotel to help navigate the streets, but he wanted to take us to buy gems today .. we didn't want any gems. So, he left We did, however, find some excellent buys on clothing and table runners, etc.

This trip has made us really appreciate what we have!! The beautiful forts and palaces are basically in ruin. The government doesn't want to pay to refurbish them and all the treasures have been taken out of the country. The officials don't do anything without being bribed ... including the cops on the corner !! The rich don't treat their "servants" very well. Our driver was offended when I thanked him, until Gopal explained that Americans thank people. He said he was just doing his job. It is so sad. At the Tiger Fort, an Indian man was there with his children. He wanted them to shake my hand .. they are fascinated with caucasians. Then he took their picture with us. It is quite an experience, being in the minority.
At the Amber Fort, Gopal stepped in to stop the vendors from harassing us. They told him it was none of his business, they were talking to us. Of course, that didn't go over very well. He told them that we were his parents (talk about confusing them!) and to back off !!!
Did I say that we are glad to have Gopal?
We are going for a massage now and then out for a fancy dinner with entertainment. Will post ore tomorrow.

Notes from Michael: Gopal and I had an Ayurvedic massage yesterday - massage with oils, facial and a couple of upgrades for $25 US. We're going back today! Other side notes: lots of mothballs in drains (hate to think what they smell like without them. Beautiful views and ancient architecture. Air is cleaner here in Jaipur (the Pink City). Good shopping. Getting tired of the food so ordered Spaghetti Bolognese - didn't stop to wonder what the meat might be considering they don't kill cows. Oh well.

Agra

After a 3-hr drive from Delhi, we reached Agra and the Taj Mahal. It, of course, was fabulous! It takes so long to drive anywhere in India. You have 2-lane roads being used by pedestrians, guys on bicycles pulling loads, horses & camels pulling loads, tractors pulling trailers filled with people, small "golf-carts" loaded down with people, trucks, cars, buses ... in both directions!
This computer is awful, the keyboard is sticking, so we may not add as much today.

Then we drove to Jaipur, which took about 5 hours. Had a terrible time trying to find our hotel. Thankfully, we have Gopal and our driver!

Gandhi Memorial

Mike and Craig with Gandhi.
We leave New Delhi today and are more than ready. It is a big, crowded, dirty city. Water and electricity are in short, short supply. Is this what we have to look forward to in America, if our current shortages continue? Nothing is ever washed down, even the excrement on the sidewalks. The staff at the hotel sleep on the floor on pallets, the taxi drivers sleep in their taxis, etc. As Mike said, we will never complain of bring poor! On a positive note, dogs run free and don't look hungry, brahmas have free run of the streets as well.

I am not sure if we will have internet access where we end up, but will post if we do. Updates will follow.

Post Wedding: Pre-Travels from Michael

Today was a light day. We decided to go with Suresh and Hugo to the Gandhi memorial (the eternal flame and museum). It was quite lovely. Great place to meditate. It's a rather large and well-manicured park. The eternal flame portion was very peaceful for the spirit. (Pictures to come).
Our driver (Vilay - pronounced Vijay) was rather despondent. He got a little drunk and was accused of picking up (stealing) some of the money being thrown around in the wedding parade. Evidently this money traditionally goes to the band. Speaking on his behalf, however, I left my money pouch and passport in Gopal's backpack in Vilay's car all night. I woke up at 5am realizing this. Everything was returned in its entirety. Don't tell Gopal but I tipped him 100 rupees (= approx. $2.50) a big deal to him.
Afterwards, we did a little shopping, exchanging of currency for our travels starting tomorrow, and came back to the hotel.
We start at 7am.

Wedding Day

Gopal, Michael, Craig and Suzan dressed in their "finery" for the wedding. Gopal provided all of the outfits and they were perfect! He even found some shoes to fit Craig.

Suresh, Gopal, Suzan, Craig, Michael & Hugo

The bridegroom, Rohit, dressed and participating in his family's ceremonies. There are many traditional pre-meeting the bride and family ceremonies. He was honored by his family, including all his extended family ... aunts, uncles, cousins, friends, etc.

Craig & Michael in their traditional turbans (all the men of the groom's family wore them and were given 10 rupees "for luck") and mom.

We finally arrive at the place where the wedding ceremony will be held. It is 11pm! We danced in front of the groom on his drugged and bejewelled white horse for hours, stopped by a temple to ask blessings from the gods, got lost on the way. Once we arrive at the entrance, Suzan and Craig greet the elephant "for good luck."

It is 1am. The bride (isn't she beautiful!) and groom finally meet. The ceremony has yet to begin. We have eaten. We are going home. (BTW - Gopal calls us at 8:30am to let us know that the wedding has ended and he is coming home to sleep).

Earthquake!!!

My mom forgot to mention that we experience our first earthquake (4.3 magnitude) at about 5am this morning. All of us being experienced earthquake Californians, we promptly went right back to sleep.

2nd Day in Delhi

What a fun day ! We have our own car and driver, so were able to do some sightseeing. Most places are closed on Sunday, so shopping was out.
First, we went to the National Museum. Saw artifacts from 2000-3000 BC. And I am constantly encouraged to throw my old stuff out!
Then we went to the India Gate, which is a memorial to all the people who have fought for India. There is a large part area by the Gate and many families were out enjoying the day. Of course, as at home, you had kids running around in "packs", but not many. Lots and lots of vendors ... of food, drinks, ice cream, toys, etc.
Then we went to the Lotus Temple, which is the B'hai B'rith house of faith. It was beautiful. We got in line and went inside. It was beautiful and serene. Mike saw a tall building in the distance and found out it was Iskond, the Hare Krishna temple ... wasn't in any of the guidebooks. So, of course, we went there. A lot of activity going on there with many worshipers. Quite a contrast to the Lotus Temple.

Last night, Craig and I were tired, so we stayed "in" while Mike and Gopal went to a dance party for the wedding.
The food has been wonderful and bottled water is plentiful. Gopal brought us our new clothes to wear for the wedding today, so watch for the pictures tomorrow !!

Rohit (the groom on the left) & friend at dinner

Nov. 25 - from Michael

The first thing you are hit with upon entering customs is the smell of New Delhi. It smells like a wet campfire that permeates the entire city - it even gets in your clothes. The luggage handlers greet you outside the baggage collection like flies. you shew them away, they flow away with the energy then pull right back in only to land again on your luggage - not hover nearby, but LAND. It kind of reminds me of being in the Haunted House at Disneyland when you suddenly look up and notice a ghost, or in this case a luggage handler, walking by your side with his hands on your luggage. They're harmless enough. I don't even think it's a matter of determination or riteousness or even neediness. It's just a way of life.

Other notes: Stepping outside the hotel, I immediately landed in feces of some sort. The hotel food has been some of the best Indian food I've tasted in my life - thus far. Horns honk in a continuous mutiny that would make even New York envious. Early in the A.M. I found hotel several workers sleeping under paint tarps on the floors. The people are quite lovely.

Gopal and I agreed that the men are cute, some pretty/handsome, but not sexy. Gopal attributes this to their general deameanor. I think it has something to do with, something my mom picked up, unlike America where we flaunt our sex and hide our religion, in India one openly expresses their spiritual beliefs but hide their sexuality. Of course, my mom was the first to bring up sex in a company of young men during dinner! That and expressing to the groom how to have a happy marriage which includes the equality of women. I think she's single-handedly going to initiate women's rights in India. :P

Arrival Day

It is now 3:30 pm on Saturday afternoon ... about 3:30 am Saturday morning at home.
We arrived, uneventfully, at 5:55 this morning. Gopal and his brother-in-law Vinay, met us at the airport. It was so good to have someone managing our transit to a hotel!! We were stopped by the local police upon leaving the airport. A lot of people are using their own vehicles as taxis, and not paying the licensing fees, etc. Of course, our own taxi was one of the guilty ! The driver wanted Gopal to say the taxi belonged to him, but he wouldn't do that. So, there was a little "under the table" fee to the policeman (1500 rupees) to not give him a ticket.
The hotel is clean and about on the level of a Holiday Inn, but a little nicer. The really nice hotels run about $300-400 a night. We don't need to stay in one of those !! Of course, Gopal found the hotel and even checked it out for us beforehand.
It is fascinating to see the area as we drove through. Lots and lots of people, a farmer's market, homeless people around a fire built in the street next to a curb, everybody wants to provide a "service", such as give you information about the area .... for a tip.
Craig is still asleep but Mike has done a little exploring on his own. Tonight is the henna party, so will give info about that.
We send pictures on my next posting.

Cochise has her own credit card 11

Notice to Friends and Family

Watch for updates from our trip to India !!
Michael Reynolds, Arleta Soares, Craig Weber & Suzan Reynolds will fly out from LAX on Thanksgiving Day, November 22, 2007 on British Airways. Keep your fingers crossed that we don't lose any luggage, as they have the worst reputation for losing luggage.