Home, Sweet Home

We all arrived safely.

Delhi airport is a madhouse, completely unorganized and time consuming. It took us about 3 hours to make it through all the checkpoints. Our flight out was delayed by 2 hours. Gopal has nothing good to say about British Airways. I will say that the Indian attendants were very kind and as helpful as they could be. You could immediately tell the difference once in London - very civilized!! We landed at LAX at 3pm on Saturday, Dec. 15th. It took us an 1 1/2 hours to finally retrieve all our luggage.

Once home, I took a long shower, pet my cat and went to bed at 6:30pm. I have been dealing with sinus drainage and coughing for the past week. That's clearing up quickly since I've arrived in California. This morning I treated myself to bacon and eggs and a long bath.

In closing, I have to say that the trip was amazing and life changing. I enjoyed every minute - even the challenging times. Again, because of Gopal we were treated to a far deeper connection (particularly with his family) to the culture than if we had travelled without him. My deepest gratitude goes out to our friendship - I am truly blessed.

Now that I am home, I am grateful for my bed, hot running water, clean drinking water, meat and fresh vegetables. The one thing I loved about India that I didn't miss is Christmas music and decorations and the frantic chaos associated with Christmas present buying.

A friend of mine told me before I went that I "will never feel poor again." This sentiment continues to echo through my mind. Today, I feel rich and grateful.

Thank you to those who have kept up with our blog. I hope you have enjoyed the journey as well.

Merry Christmas!

The Morning of Our Return

Arleta and I are packed and ready to check out of our last hotel stay. We are in Delhi.

Last night, Gopal and his niece took us to an amazing Punjab (Gopal's nationality) restaurant. It's appropriate that our last meal was probably our best. Before the meal, however, I went to the "Man's Salon" and got a shave (I've never had anyone shave me before!!), a facial and a full body massage for 550 Rupees (= approx. $15 US). I tipped more than I paid because, hell, I'm leaving and it's good to be generous.

The hotel (Hotel Shiv) is another experience. For about $100 US we stayed in something that we wouldn't pay $20 for at home. Somewhere in the middle of the night I kicked the cord for our electric heater out of the wall and the air conditioning went on. The tricky thing is the switch which provided power for the outlet for the electric heater ALSO provided the power for the air conditioner. Since I didn't know how to turn off the air conditioner, I had to run power to both the air conditioner AND the heater at the same time. I guess this is considered FULL SERVICE??

Anyway, the trip has been amazing, adventurous, full and we owe a lot to Gopal's generous nature - taking care of us, haggling with driver's and merchants, planning our trip, and JUST sharing himself unconditionally.

Namaskar
(Sanskrit for Namaste)

Namaste: The Highest part of ME reaches out to the Highest part of YOU; and we meet in the middle.

Wednesday - Haridwar

We left Delhi early Monday morning and drove to Haridwar - one of the holiest cities along the Ganga River. Haridwar means Gateway of the Gods. (On your left is Krishna).

Haridwar is closer to the mountains, so the water is cleaner. I stuck my feet in as they say it's supposed to wash away your sins. Well, my feet are sin-free anyway.

After spending the night in Haridwar, Arleta, Gopal and I went to Rishikesh (the home of yoga and many ashrams) then proceeded up a very windy, mountainous road to...




...the lovely mountain town of Mussouri. Here is a picture of Gopal and Arleta with the Himalays in the background. Mussouri was quite nice and extremely cold. The hotel provided a room heater - which did not help. I have been fighting a sinus cold since last Sunday, plus I didn't think we'd all survive a night of freezing, so we headed back to Haridwar.

Gopal and I are more than ret' to come home. It's been fun. I want to take a hot bath, enjoy a hamburger, speak English, pet my cat, and not have to smell the continuous aromas of feces, urine and diesel exhaust.

Sunday in Delhi

Mom & Craig made it home safely. Their first stop was an In-N-Out for burgers.

Arleta, Gopal and I are still in Delhi. The air seems cleaner but my lungs and sinuses disagree. Much phlegm!!

Arleta and I went to the place where Gandhi was shot yesterday. Good to see. Mostly, unfortunately for Arleta, we're laying low in Delhi these two days. Planning to take off early tomorrow morning.

We made it Home

A few pictures that I hadn't had a chance to post earlier ... just a few of the many, many pictures we have !!










The tree under which Buddha received enlightenment.










Buddha ... this picture was taken from outside the temple, as we were not allowed to take pictures inside.












All of the trucks in India were decorated lavishly. At night, the reflections and lights are beautiful !!







It was not unusual to see a pair of these creatures pulling a cart loaded down with people or whatever ... most often, on the wrong side of the road, coming straight at you !!









After 28 hours on traveling, from New Delhi to LAX, we made it home. That isn't counting the 2 1/2 hours it took us to get through everthing in Delhi and the hour it took at LAX. Thankfully, our bestest friend, Vickie, came to pick us up at LAX. She and her sister, Phylis, we waiting for us the minute we walked out of the terminal. Friends like her are very, very special !!!
We left the camera with Mike, so that future pictures are up to him.

Back in New Delhi - Arleta here - Mom & Craig en route home

After Varanasi, we took a 6 1/2 hour road trip to Bodhgaya (or Buddha Gaya) - the location of a beautiful buddhist temple (pictures do not do it justice) and the site of the bodhi tree where the buddha sat and gained enlightenment.

But first, the road trip. Imagine sitting on the 10 freeway. You are heading West on your side of the divider. You are in the #1 lane (or the fast lane). Suddenly you see a bus overloaded with passengers hanging out the doors and sitting on the roof headed in your direction in your lane. You get over within an inch of hitting the bus head on (because the bus does not slow down) after you pass the ox drawn cart in the lane next to you, only to avoid running over the child or woman who has crossed the road in front of you, only to come to a sudden stop because the freeway has, without warning, become a pot-holed dirt road. The roadways are ABSOLUTE chaos in India. But, in absolute chaos there is order and peace. I have yet to witness someone get upset because another car/person/bus/cart/bike has cut them off. We saw 3 overturned or broken-axled trucks, but no accidents.

Bodhgaya was beautiful, more tropical (for the desert). Again, I felt an amazingly sweet energy meditating under the tree. We also saw a fish pond which looked more like fish soup there were so many large (what looked to be) catfish.

The next morning we took another harrowing trip to the airport, arrived in Delhi, mom & Craig packed (mom not feeling well with running sinuses) and dropped them off at the international airport. The international airport is another experience I will describe at another time. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER complain about LA traffic or the LAX.

Thursday in Varanasi

Here is the monk that Mike is talking about. Also, Gopal getting his hair trimmed.

The "barber" also massaged his neck and back. Gopal is soooo spoiled !!

A lot of tours stay at the hotel where we are staying. Craig and I were talking to one of the tour guides at breakfast and he told us how lucky we are to have someone like Gopal with us to arrange everything for us. I told him that we knew that and we really are fortunate !!

We stopped at a silk shop and found some wonderful buys. We finally (after how many days?) realize that even though there are many inexpensive things to buy, we end up buying more !!!! So, still spend a lot of money !! Will have to be frugal when we get back home !!

Blessed Day - from Michael

Today we went to Sarnath. In Sarnath is a temple where it is said that the Buddha gave his first sermon. Also at this temple, kept blocked by two buddhist monks, stands a shrine with the relics (pearl-like remains left by a saint after cremation) of the Buddha himself.

Within the temple I caught eyes with one of the monks. I felt there was a recognition, or knowing, between us and we acknowledged each other by nodding our heads. The energy of the temple was wonderful, so I decided to purchase a mala (a beaded necklace used in prayers - similar to rosary beads) from this temple. I did just that. Immediately, the monk called me over and blessed my mala through the shrine, touching them to the relic container. I put the beads over my neck and felt blissful energy around my heart. This started something and my mom and Gopal also purchased malas for the monk to bless, which he was kind enough to do.

After the temple visit, we stopped to purchase some beautiful silks.

Then we went to the archaeological site of king Aroskos (275 B.C., if I remember correctly) where it is said that the Buddha walked and meditated. I took the opportunity to meditate on these grounds and, I have to say, it was one of the sweetest meditations I've had since I started over 2 years ago.

From there we went to the museum across the street.

Here's the best part: Craig wanted to get some mala beads from the temple, as well, but missed his chance on our first visit. So, we went back. I went with Gopal to watch him get his hair cut at the local barber shop. Remember the monk, well he remembered my mom and Craig and took them back behind the fence of the shrine!!! They got to walk around it AND touch the buddha's relic container. This is a big deal!! We were told it only happens twice a year (this was not one of those times) and no other visitors that we know of were invited.

Also, and this is the biggest blessing for me, the monk - whose name turns out to be Sunarada - gave my mom his card. He requested she give it to me and asked that I keep in touch with him. I walked back and gave him my card, as well. This is a blessed connection.

Another exciting progression is Arleta finally arrived in New Delhi. She arrived about 3 hours delayed. Her luggage has yet to be located, but she is safe and HERE.

Wednesday in Varanasi

Last night, we went down to the river Gange for a religious ceremony, called an arti. It was very beautiful! The man in the red kerchief was selling little lights called diyas ... basically floating candles, that you light and set afloat in the river.

They have many ghats along the river, and each has a ceremony. It was very moving for Gopal, especially.

The people here are very friendly. The vendors are persistent, but not obnoxious. It is still cleaner than Delhi.

This morning, Mike and Gopal took a boat ride on the river to watch the sunrise and Gopal went to the temple for Shiva. We also saw the Ghat's where they do the cremations (pictured above), children with chicken pox (they are only allowed to bathe in the river at this ghat, and the ghat for widows).

Then they came back to the hotel and we had breakfast. The breakfast was good ... freshly brewed coffee, cappuccino, pancakes, as well as the usual Indian fare.

Notes from Michael

We arrived in Varanasi and landed at the Radison Hotel. What a relief!!! Our hotel in Delhi (not the cleanest of cities to begin with) knocked us down the street to a sister hotel that was subpar, to say the least. The rooms were dirty, smokey, I swear I felt things crawling on me in the night. Normally I would just go with the flow and call it an adventure, but it was midnight and our rooms were confirmed. The hotel just wanted more money from other travellers.

The Radison, on the other hand, is probably the most plush hotel we've stayed at thus far. Thank GOD for lots of toilet paper and clean sheets. Perhaps we can even get some fresh food here??

This may sound bleak, but we're all having a good time. Although, it is sometimes challenging.

Monday-Dec 3

Well, we are back in Delhi ... just for the night. What a letdown, after Udaipur .. which was such a pretty city. Delhi has about 12 million ??? people, which makes it very, very crowded. We fly out to Varanasai in the morning, where the Ganges River is and it is the holiest of the cities. Should be quite a moving experience. However, I doubt we will bathe in the river as the devout do.
I am unable to download any pictures, as this computer is being "stupid", and it is late, so we will try to have pictures on our next entry.
We do miss everyone ... Mike can hardly wait to have lox and bagels again, but Craig & I just want a hamburger !!!!

Sunday in Udaipur

It took us about six hours of driving to reach Udaipur. The roads were much better, but you still have areas of congestion in the "towns" you go through. There were toll roads, which were four-laned and well-paved, as well.
Udaipur is a beautiful little town on a lake, much cleaner than the other places we have been. The hotel is very beautiful. They have a City Palace in which the King still resides. We are going to tour it later today.
We are all getting tired of traditional Indian food ... even Gopal. It is the same all the time. Today we stopped at a "German" bakery, had some real coffe and "pastries". Oh, well .... will appreciate our food even more when we get home.
We have done a lot of shopping but the prices were better in Jaipur. No monkeys here, but still have all the other animals. It's interesting to see all the dogs in the streets. Nobody pets them but everybody feeds them !!

Side notes from Michael: Every Indian menu offers Chinese food options??!! Many men have orange (Henna) colored hair - not a color found in nature!!

I LOVE Udaipur!!! I could spend a week here. The energy is fantastick! The air is clean here. The people are beautiful. The shopping is wonderful. Got to see the Lake Palace at night (dragged mom, Craig and Gopal) all lit up. The Lake Palace is featured in the movie Octopussy - and I AM a James Bond fan. Oh, and got an even better massage here (the 3rd in 3 days for approx. $20 with tip). I feel at home here.



This is the hotel we are staying in while in Udaipur. Newly renovated.

This is our room. Nice, huh?


We have to stop in the middle of the road to let the "cross-traffic" through.

Jaipur

After 11 hours in the car, we spent most of yesterday (Thursday) resting, but dong some shopping. Today, we went to the Amber Fort and the Tiger Fort ... no tigers. Lots of shopping. Thank goodness Gopal is with us to do the bartering ... we have saved a lot. Gopal hired a man at the hotel to help navigate the streets, but he wanted to take us to buy gems today .. we didn't want any gems. So, he left We did, however, find some excellent buys on clothing and table runners, etc.

This trip has made us really appreciate what we have!! The beautiful forts and palaces are basically in ruin. The government doesn't want to pay to refurbish them and all the treasures have been taken out of the country. The officials don't do anything without being bribed ... including the cops on the corner !! The rich don't treat their "servants" very well. Our driver was offended when I thanked him, until Gopal explained that Americans thank people. He said he was just doing his job. It is so sad. At the Tiger Fort, an Indian man was there with his children. He wanted them to shake my hand .. they are fascinated with caucasians. Then he took their picture with us. It is quite an experience, being in the minority.
At the Amber Fort, Gopal stepped in to stop the vendors from harassing us. They told him it was none of his business, they were talking to us. Of course, that didn't go over very well. He told them that we were his parents (talk about confusing them!) and to back off !!!
Did I say that we are glad to have Gopal?
We are going for a massage now and then out for a fancy dinner with entertainment. Will post ore tomorrow.

Notes from Michael: Gopal and I had an Ayurvedic massage yesterday - massage with oils, facial and a couple of upgrades for $25 US. We're going back today! Other side notes: lots of mothballs in drains (hate to think what they smell like without them. Beautiful views and ancient architecture. Air is cleaner here in Jaipur (the Pink City). Good shopping. Getting tired of the food so ordered Spaghetti Bolognese - didn't stop to wonder what the meat might be considering they don't kill cows. Oh well.

Agra

After a 3-hr drive from Delhi, we reached Agra and the Taj Mahal. It, of course, was fabulous! It takes so long to drive anywhere in India. You have 2-lane roads being used by pedestrians, guys on bicycles pulling loads, horses & camels pulling loads, tractors pulling trailers filled with people, small "golf-carts" loaded down with people, trucks, cars, buses ... in both directions!
This computer is awful, the keyboard is sticking, so we may not add as much today.

Then we drove to Jaipur, which took about 5 hours. Had a terrible time trying to find our hotel. Thankfully, we have Gopal and our driver!

Gandhi Memorial

Mike and Craig with Gandhi.
We leave New Delhi today and are more than ready. It is a big, crowded, dirty city. Water and electricity are in short, short supply. Is this what we have to look forward to in America, if our current shortages continue? Nothing is ever washed down, even the excrement on the sidewalks. The staff at the hotel sleep on the floor on pallets, the taxi drivers sleep in their taxis, etc. As Mike said, we will never complain of bring poor! On a positive note, dogs run free and don't look hungry, brahmas have free run of the streets as well.

I am not sure if we will have internet access where we end up, but will post if we do. Updates will follow.

Post Wedding: Pre-Travels from Michael

Today was a light day. We decided to go with Suresh and Hugo to the Gandhi memorial (the eternal flame and museum). It was quite lovely. Great place to meditate. It's a rather large and well-manicured park. The eternal flame portion was very peaceful for the spirit. (Pictures to come).
Our driver (Vilay - pronounced Vijay) was rather despondent. He got a little drunk and was accused of picking up (stealing) some of the money being thrown around in the wedding parade. Evidently this money traditionally goes to the band. Speaking on his behalf, however, I left my money pouch and passport in Gopal's backpack in Vilay's car all night. I woke up at 5am realizing this. Everything was returned in its entirety. Don't tell Gopal but I tipped him 100 rupees (= approx. $2.50) a big deal to him.
Afterwards, we did a little shopping, exchanging of currency for our travels starting tomorrow, and came back to the hotel.
We start at 7am.

Wedding Day

Gopal, Michael, Craig and Suzan dressed in their "finery" for the wedding. Gopal provided all of the outfits and they were perfect! He even found some shoes to fit Craig.

Suresh, Gopal, Suzan, Craig, Michael & Hugo

The bridegroom, Rohit, dressed and participating in his family's ceremonies. There are many traditional pre-meeting the bride and family ceremonies. He was honored by his family, including all his extended family ... aunts, uncles, cousins, friends, etc.

Craig & Michael in their traditional turbans (all the men of the groom's family wore them and were given 10 rupees "for luck") and mom.

We finally arrive at the place where the wedding ceremony will be held. It is 11pm! We danced in front of the groom on his drugged and bejewelled white horse for hours, stopped by a temple to ask blessings from the gods, got lost on the way. Once we arrive at the entrance, Suzan and Craig greet the elephant "for good luck."

It is 1am. The bride (isn't she beautiful!) and groom finally meet. The ceremony has yet to begin. We have eaten. We are going home. (BTW - Gopal calls us at 8:30am to let us know that the wedding has ended and he is coming home to sleep).

Earthquake!!!

My mom forgot to mention that we experience our first earthquake (4.3 magnitude) at about 5am this morning. All of us being experienced earthquake Californians, we promptly went right back to sleep.

2nd Day in Delhi

What a fun day ! We have our own car and driver, so were able to do some sightseeing. Most places are closed on Sunday, so shopping was out.
First, we went to the National Museum. Saw artifacts from 2000-3000 BC. And I am constantly encouraged to throw my old stuff out!
Then we went to the India Gate, which is a memorial to all the people who have fought for India. There is a large part area by the Gate and many families were out enjoying the day. Of course, as at home, you had kids running around in "packs", but not many. Lots and lots of vendors ... of food, drinks, ice cream, toys, etc.
Then we went to the Lotus Temple, which is the B'hai B'rith house of faith. It was beautiful. We got in line and went inside. It was beautiful and serene. Mike saw a tall building in the distance and found out it was Iskond, the Hare Krishna temple ... wasn't in any of the guidebooks. So, of course, we went there. A lot of activity going on there with many worshipers. Quite a contrast to the Lotus Temple.

Last night, Craig and I were tired, so we stayed "in" while Mike and Gopal went to a dance party for the wedding.
The food has been wonderful and bottled water is plentiful. Gopal brought us our new clothes to wear for the wedding today, so watch for the pictures tomorrow !!

Rohit (the groom on the left) & friend at dinner

Nov. 25 - from Michael

The first thing you are hit with upon entering customs is the smell of New Delhi. It smells like a wet campfire that permeates the entire city - it even gets in your clothes. The luggage handlers greet you outside the baggage collection like flies. you shew them away, they flow away with the energy then pull right back in only to land again on your luggage - not hover nearby, but LAND. It kind of reminds me of being in the Haunted House at Disneyland when you suddenly look up and notice a ghost, or in this case a luggage handler, walking by your side with his hands on your luggage. They're harmless enough. I don't even think it's a matter of determination or riteousness or even neediness. It's just a way of life.

Other notes: Stepping outside the hotel, I immediately landed in feces of some sort. The hotel food has been some of the best Indian food I've tasted in my life - thus far. Horns honk in a continuous mutiny that would make even New York envious. Early in the A.M. I found hotel several workers sleeping under paint tarps on the floors. The people are quite lovely.

Gopal and I agreed that the men are cute, some pretty/handsome, but not sexy. Gopal attributes this to their general deameanor. I think it has something to do with, something my mom picked up, unlike America where we flaunt our sex and hide our religion, in India one openly expresses their spiritual beliefs but hide their sexuality. Of course, my mom was the first to bring up sex in a company of young men during dinner! That and expressing to the groom how to have a happy marriage which includes the equality of women. I think she's single-handedly going to initiate women's rights in India. :P

Arrival Day

It is now 3:30 pm on Saturday afternoon ... about 3:30 am Saturday morning at home.
We arrived, uneventfully, at 5:55 this morning. Gopal and his brother-in-law Vinay, met us at the airport. It was so good to have someone managing our transit to a hotel!! We were stopped by the local police upon leaving the airport. A lot of people are using their own vehicles as taxis, and not paying the licensing fees, etc. Of course, our own taxi was one of the guilty ! The driver wanted Gopal to say the taxi belonged to him, but he wouldn't do that. So, there was a little "under the table" fee to the policeman (1500 rupees) to not give him a ticket.
The hotel is clean and about on the level of a Holiday Inn, but a little nicer. The really nice hotels run about $300-400 a night. We don't need to stay in one of those !! Of course, Gopal found the hotel and even checked it out for us beforehand.
It is fascinating to see the area as we drove through. Lots and lots of people, a farmer's market, homeless people around a fire built in the street next to a curb, everybody wants to provide a "service", such as give you information about the area .... for a tip.
Craig is still asleep but Mike has done a little exploring on his own. Tonight is the henna party, so will give info about that.
We send pictures on my next posting.

Cochise has her own credit card 11

Notice to Friends and Family

Watch for updates from our trip to India !!
Michael Reynolds, Arleta Soares, Craig Weber & Suzan Reynolds will fly out from LAX on Thanksgiving Day, November 22, 2007 on British Airways. Keep your fingers crossed that we don't lose any luggage, as they have the worst reputation for losing luggage.